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We have tried to make our descriptions
of roses helpful and as consistent as possible.
As well as stating the rose's classification our ideal is
to say something helpful about it's colour, fragrance, flowering
period, foliage, growth habit & dimensions.
Frequently we also mention tolerance of shade & poorer soil
conditions and sometimes we even touch on the contentious issue
of health!
Descriptions of colour are at best only a guide, and a subjective
one at that. It is fairly obvious that roses come in an almost
infinite range of colours and blends. So rather than call dozens
of different
roses simply "red", breeders & growers try to differentiate
with things like "fiery pillarbox red" and "deep
blood red" which are evocative, but can be as misleading as
they are helpful (especially if you're royalty!). And I’m
still trying to work out the difference between "crimson-scarlet" & "scarlet-crimson".
And if descriptions are less than perfect, on no account be
tempted to put too much faith in pictures. They can be really
misleading! The reality is that any given rose variety will
vary in shade & intensity
- sometimes quite dramatically - depending on the type of soil,
the amount of sunshine, the time of year, the age of the individual
flower,
or even the time of day. I'm afraid that any attempt to order
the colours of "the outside room" to match your lounge
curtains is doomed to failure.
If colours are subjective and difficult to define things get very
much worse when we get to fragrance. What customers don't realise
- naturally enough as we've only got our own nose to follow
- is that the sense of smell is very individual. It's not that
some people have a "good" sense of smell while others
dont; rather certain scents seem very powerful to me and other
fragrances are almost imperceptible whilst with you it's the
reverse. So any description of fragrance in roses has by necessity
to be based
on a sort of 'average' perception. Equally all the variables
that affect colour in a roses also affect the intensity of
its fragrance. So don't be surprised if you don’t agree
with the description, we're not trying to pull a fast one -
honest!
Once again space requires the enorrmous range of size and habit
to be limited to a few generalisations such as "spreading",
"upright" or "bushy" but
at least they are readily understandable and unlikely to be
misleading. Not so with dimensions.
The problem is that the height and spread of a rose is the
most variable characteristic of all with huge variations either
side of whatever might be considered the norm for any particular
variety.
For this reason I am seriously tempted not to include dimensions
at all in our descriptions, particularly when I hear customers
rejecting one variety because it says "4' high" when
they wanted one to reach the windowsill which happens to be
4' 3".
Well, I exaggerate of course, but the fact that dimensions
are always given in round figures should alert you to the fact
that they are
not to be taken as too exact! Sometimes we do revert to saying
simply "tall" or "medium",
but this doesn't really seem very satisfactory either. Finally
we apologise to our continental customers and those under the
age of twenty for using feet & inches rather than centimetres.
(1' =
30cms; 6" = 15cms.)
Do not be fooled into thinking that tolerant is the same as happy!
Roses are greedy feeders and almost without exception are going to
do best in full sun. You may not be able to do anything about the
level of shade, but you almost certainly can do something about improving
poorer soils - and you should! The results will be well worth it. |
Here at last we are on slightly more objective
ground, although the constraints of space inevitably require some
simplification.
We tend to use three terms to cover the whole range of flowering
periods.
Summer flowering means that there is basically only one flowering
season. Most commonly this is for about 3 to 5 weeks during June & July,
but for some varieties is earlier or later, or more extensive.
Repeat flowering means that there is at least one subsequent
flush of flowers although this is frequently not as prolific as
the initial one.
Continuous flowering means consistent repeat flowering right
through the season.
But as with colour and fragrance, repeat flowering is also
affected by growing conditions. In particular it is necessary with
repeat flowering varieties to remove spent flowers to prevent the
plant setting seed and packing up flower production for the season.
It should also be noted that some repeat flowering varieties, climbers
particularly, do not repeat well, or at all, for the first year
or two.
Rose leaves are almost as varied in size, shape,
texture & colour as the flowers themselves and make a huge contribution
to the attractiveness of the plant as a whole. Although we
tend to think of the rose season as not starting until late
May or early
June, we find the preceding couple of months to be a fascinating
time on the nursery as the foliage develops and the rose area
is gradually transformed from a sea of white labels waving
over black pots to a carpet of every kind of green and purple,
bronze and red.
Consequently, the prosaic terms we use such as "semi-glossy"
and "mid-green" are
always are always going to be inadequate, but hopefully still
serve as a guide.
Not surprisingly this is probably the characteristic
that customers are most concerned about. Indeed the most asked
question (other than 'Where's the coffee shop?') is probably
"Is it disease resistant?" Unfortunately this is not as
straightforward as it sounds. Undeniably there are some varieties
which are
prone to disease - the rambler Dorothy Perkins for example
is a famous martyr to mildew and Rosa foetida seems to suck
blackspot spores
greedily out of the air. Equally there are some roses, although
not
many - and fewer it must be said than the number claimed by
breeders and growers! - that remain impervious to disease in
all circumstances.
The vast majority of roses are somewhere in the middle and
how they perform in your garden is as much down to how you
grow them as to
their innate disease resistance. In other words a "suspect"
variety which is well grown with sufficient nutrients, adequate
moisture, plenty of sun and air, and which has been regularly
and appropriately
pruned is going to be a lot healthier than a variety with "excellent
disease resistance" which is struggling and under frequent
stress. In this respect roses aren't so different to humans.
If you had to spend a fortnight in a dark and stuffy room with
nothing to eat and not enough to drink with a VAT return you
couldn't
reconcile, you'd probably be a little peaky too. So.... use
descriptions of disease resistance or weakness as a guide,
but don't
be fooled on the one hand or put off on the other.
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